Archive for the ‘Uruguay’ Category

It’s a funny little place, Uruguay. It has a population of 3 million people in an area the size of Wales, England and Northern Ireland combined, half of which live in one city. I’m told people often get it confused with Paraguay, although I don’t think I’ve ever been guilty of that. In fact I know very little about Uruguay, which is a little strange given that I’ve been there more than 10 times, usually on a Visa Run (a 70 mile daytrip by ferry to Colonia to renew my 90 tourist stamp). Needing to renew my visa again, this time I decided to do things a little more in depth and spent a couple of days in Montevideo and even took a side trip to Punta del Este.

Punta del Este (or simply Punta if you’re in the know) is famous for one thing – attracting hordes of rich and famous Argentinians every summer. From January until April the magazine stands in Buenos Aires are full of glossy covers showing the beautiful people at play across the river in Punta. Sort of like a high-class Benidorm, but with fewer Germans, it didn’t strike me as the sort of place I would like very much.

However, in the spirit of discovery, coupled with the realisation that there was no way I was going to be able to stretch out a 3rd day looking round Montevideo, I hopped on a bus and headed east to the sea.

As the bus rounded the corner at the top of the cliff overlooking the sweep of the bay and Punta del Este appeared in the distance, a row of skyscrapers several miles long, my heart sank. I had visions of crowds with sunburned shoulders walking down the street with plastic mugs of beer stumbling from amusement arcade to bar.

It just goes to show however, that you must always travel with an open mind, because I actually found myself very pleasantly surprised by Punta del Este. Firstly it was clean. As in spotless. Maybe it was simply ready for the long summer season to come but the streets were tidy and empty. Wandering away from the centre past some seriously fancy summer homes, there was not a soul around and the clear skies and sea breezes both helped to create a relaxed sense of well-being.

I can believe that in the middle of February when half of Buenos Aires is crammed onto the beach it becomes a much less attractive place, but I thoroughly enjoyed strolling around the half-empty streets. In a strange way it was like leaving South America for a few hours and visiting a fantasy land where everything is clean and bright and every day is a holiday.

As wonderful as Buenos Aires is, at some point you will want to escape for a few hours, if only for a change of scenery. Thankfully getting away from it is not difficult (or expensive) and there are some lovely spots worth a visit within in easy reach.

1. Tigre

Probably the most popular Porteño daytrip of all, Tigre is a must-see, even if you’re just in Buenos Aires for a few days. Situated on the delta of the river Paraná, the town is a gateway to hundreds of kilometres of navigable river, complete with restaurants, hotel, holiday complexes and entire neighbourhoods.

Numerous boats leave the Estacion Fluvial for a guided tour up the river, pointing out the main points of interest (including the house of former President Sarmiento, faithfully preserved in a huge glass box) along the way. The town is also host to an amusement park (Parque de la Costa) and an enormous, flashy casino if you like your pleasures a little more risky.

An easy hour-long train-ride from Buenos Aires (leaving from Retiro, but if you’re in Palermo get a taxi to the Lisandro del Torre station), a day in Tigre is a wonderful way to escape the heat of a Porteño summer.

2. La Plata

In 1880, when the decision was finally made to make Buenos Aires the capital of Argentina, a new site for the capital of the Province of Buenos Aires had to be found. It was decided to build a new city from scratch about 50km from the new national capital.

The result, La Plata, is known as La Cuidad del Diagonal (the Diagonal City), due to the large tree-lined avenues that criss-cross the usual square block layout. La Plata is a pleasant place just to wander, with shops to rival Palermo’s finest and a beautiful central square, home to the striking Cathedral.

At the other end of the central thoroughfare are the Bosques de la Plata, a large and leafy park, complete with boating lake, Observatory and numerous museums.

It takes about 90 minutes to reach La Plata by train, leaving from Constitucion station.

3. Luján

Hop on the number 57 from Plaza Italia and in just over an hour you’ll find yourself in Luján, the religious heart of Argentina. Home to a large neo-gothic Basilica (not unsimilar in design to the cathedral in La Plata), built to honour La Virgen de Luján, the Patron Saint of Argentina.

Known as the nation’s Capital of Faith, Luján attracts some 6 million pilgrims a year, many of them walking the 68 kilometres from Buenos Aires. Whilst the town itself is pleasant place to visit, and the Basilica is definitely worth a visit, a short taxi ride is recommended to nearby village Carlos Keen.

Once home to an important railway hub, the trains stopped a long time ago and made room for restaurants. Lots of them. Set round a large central green, people now flock here on Sunday for a generous portions of homemade food (asado being very popular of course) in a peaceful and rustic setting.

Luján is also home to a large and well-advertised zoo (about 10 minutes out of town). A trip here is not recommended for animal lovers, the enclosures are small and barren with more emphasis on entertainment at the creature’s expense than conservation. To be avoided.

4. Colonia

Colonia is a popular daytrip for many reasons, not least for expats who need to renew their 3-month tourist visa. A 3-hour ferry ride (Buquebus run several a day from their Retiro terminal, including a fast boat which does the trip in an hour) across the mighty River Plate, the Uruguayan town of Colonia del Sacramento is a well preserved Portuguese stronghold originally founded in 1680, with many of the original buildings still standing.

A tranquil place in the week, the picturesque and compact historic centre is overrun with daytripping Porteños on the weekends, it’s well worth the trip if you have a day spare. You could even venture to one of the estancias that surround the town for a traditional asado and cabalgata (horse ride).

I went to Uruguay on Saturday. It’s winter but it’s a nice sunny winter, so why not? If you’ve never been to Buenos Aires you wouldn’t necessarily know it, but it’s a mere 60km across the River Plate (widest river mouth in the world fact fans) from the Buquebus ferry terminal to Colonia de Sacramento, the jewel in Uruguay’s colonial crown.
Colonia is a nice little place, with the emphasis on little, 3 hours easy strolling and you’ve done it. I’ve been before and I’ll go again. In fact this time, I had to go and I’ll need to go again. Colonia you see, has a secret.

When you arrive in Argentina as a tourist and if you’re paying attention you’ll notice the stamp that you get in your passport says Turista 90 Dias. As a tourist I would be just be a little bit excited about getting a stamp in my passport and would play very little attention to the length of time given. However, when you’re actually living (and working) here you have to pay closer attention otherwise you’ll be getting a nice fine when you try to leave, and maybe they won’t let you back in.

Colonia’s dirty secret is that every boat that leaves Buenos Aires for Uruguay has at least five long-term “tourists” on board who need to get a fresh 3 month stamp in their passport. And they’ll get one. Argentinian immigration officers must be aware of what is going on, but they just don’t even bat an eyelid and just stamp you in.  Now that I’m working I have the possibility of getting residency through work, but to be honestly, having seen the hoops I’m going to have to jump through and the money I’m going to have to spend, it’s going to be easier just to jump on a ferry once every 90 days..

A dead whale on the beach at Cabo Polonio, Uruguay, December 2008. Click on the photo for full-size and just count yourselves lucky you’re only seeing, not smelling…

Back from Uruguay, only to find that the internet in the flat no longer worked. Was fixed today hence the delay in updating my exciting adventures. It was a amazing trip, if you’re not on Facebook you can see the pics here, The beaches were empty, weather amazing if a little windy and generally full of great people. The Uruguayans we met were a very relaxed yet open lot. Friendly in the way you just never seem to get in Europe. No agenda whatsoever, just happy to chat. Loved em.

Been back here since Wednesday, vaguely aware it’s Christmas in 3 days but doesn’t feel like it. It’s very hot and I haven’t heard Slade once. Although I was walking home the other night at around 5ish and saw a lady sitting on a chair outside an open hairdressers shop having her hair styled. Not something you see every day, but somehow doesn’t seem out of place here.

Got my Yellow Fever jab today, complete with very exciting certificate to show I’m disease (that one at least) free. Apparently most countries round here won’t let you in without it. Which is kind of a relief. Am going to Brazil on Friday and then Paraguay on Sunday for New Year. Will be staying with a guy I met in Uruguay and I’m told the family he lives with will kill a chicken in my honour. I’ll make sure I get a photo..

After 5 days of nothing but beer and steak, I’ve managed to get myself into some sort of organisational order and am off to Uruguay tomorrow. There’s 3 of us and we’re heading across the River Plate on a boat to Colonia first of all then on Thursday onto Punta del Diablo, a small port town with miles of empty beaches up towards the Brazilian border. Not sure how long I’ll be away but I’m not taking the computer and there ain’t much up there in the way of anything so I’ll report back here when I return.